Herculaneum & Mt. Vesuvius

Herculaneum

Herculaneum

As I sort through my photographs from my day trip into Naples today, I find it hard to pinpoint one word to describe the overall experience.  Every word that comes to mind seems overused and just not powerful enough to accurately catch the emotion I was feeling from the moment my driver picked me up this morning.  I was overwhelmed by the beauty of the day itself, in awe of the ruins, frescoes, and tile work still intact at Herculaneum, drooling over my incredibly tasty lunch, and then positively struck by my experience hiking to the crater (or the ‘cork’ as my driver jokingly referred to it) of Mt. Vesuvius.

It was one of those days where the puzzle pieces all fit together perfectly.  When my driver found out I was a culinary student experiencing all that the area has to offer, he didn’t hesitate to point out everything culinary from our drive from Piano di Sorrento over to Naples:  he took me to the town of Gragnano, the European capital of pasta, slowly drove by 300 year old olive trees for me to photograph, and then pointed out greenhouses and factories for the world renowned San Marzano tomatoes.  All sights that I would never have seen on my own. (This was just the first hour of my day trip.)

A 300-year old olive tree in Gragnono, Italy

A 300-year old olive tree in Gragnono, Italy

Villa Campolieto

Villa Campolieto

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We arrive in Naples at the site of Herculaneum, only to find that it did not open for another 30 minutes.  Unnecessarily apologizing to me for this quote-unquote ‘problem,’ my driver, Antonio, drove me to a nearby Villa, Villa Campolieto.  An enormous villa, free to the public, and partially under renovation, but still awe-inspiring.  A rose garden overlooking the bay of Naples and inviting domed, yellow and white construction just waiting to be photographed. One of those unplanned, yet unforgettable, side trips that just added to the overall day itself.

On to Herculaneum.   A Vesuvian archaeological area, not far from its larger counterpart of Pompeii, that I truthfully enjoyed more that Pompeii.  A site smaller-scale than Pompeii, but to me, better preserved and not as overwhelming.  This ancient city was built on a volcanic plateau at the foot of Vesuvius and was home to approximately 4,000 inhabitants.  Walking through the city streets and imagining the day-to-day lives of these inhabitants is awe-inspiring.  Evidence of everyday living, including thermal baths, aqueducts, bakeries, and frescoed homes surround you.  You can certainly see from what remains, that these were people that appreciated the beauty of the area in which they found themselves a part of.

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In true Italian style, it just made sense that my new friend Antonio was an acquaintance of the owner of the restaurant I enjoyed at lunch, La Terra D’Ercole.  A lovely upstairs patio overlooking the ancient ruins and the bay of Naples, specializing in wood fired pizza, Panini, and a variety of handmade pastas.  I settled in with a glass of vino bianco, a lovely caprese salad  topped with the best olives from the region, and a vegetable panino filled with grilled eggplant, tomatoes, and mushrooms.  The bread of the panino was utterly delightful—fluffy on the inside, crunchy on the outside, and the flavor—just the right amount of saltiness to richness.  The glass of wine they recommended was from the local vineyards of Mt. Vesuvius, and was delightfully crisp.

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Our next stop was Mt. Vesuvius herself.  A short drive up to the hiking point of the volcano, a delightful array off modern sculptures, made from none other than lava stone, lined the mountainous streets.  This area is a national park and it should be seen by all who visit the area.  Lovely wild flowers studded in the lava rock cascading the sides of the mountain, all underneath the towering umbrella, or pine trees, that the area is known for.  Antonio parked the car, I grabbed my hat and my trusty camera, and I was off.  A steep hike all the way to the top—all well worth the effort.  On a trail of lava ash, dust and rocks, 30 minutes of walking later you find yourself staring into the crater of Mt. Vesuvius.  Not only that, you have the most gorgeous views of Naples, the Isle of Capri, the Isle of Ischia, and the Amalfi Coast.  I was struck by emotion as I took in these unforgettable sites—first thinking to myself, I really hope that everyone I love is able to see what I am seeing at this very moment.  My next string of thoughts as I sat for a few minutes at the top of Vesuvius for a few minutes were of my Dad.  An avid traveler and hiker as well, he unfortunately never made it to Italy, but I know it was on his list of places to eat, drink, and walk his way through.  I could picture him, hiking stick in hand, standing next to me as I took in all of the sights and details of this overwhelming experience today.  (He was definitely standing next to me as I purchased 2 bottles of the delicious Mt. Vesuvius wine that I tasted at lunch as well.)  Tonight I raise a glass to my Dad, as I know he is experiencing this entire Italian adventure with me.  Cin Cin.

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The crater of Mt. Vesuvius

The crater of Mt. Vesuvius

View fron the top of Mt. Vesuvius

View from the top of Mt. Vesuvius

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Comments: 4

  1. Leanne Oneschuk May 19, 2013 at 1:16 pm Reply

    Wonderful post Anna – thanks for sharing. I truly believe that Daddy was/is there with you. He would love this experience and, even more, would love that you are getting to do all of this. Love you.

    • Personalchef07 May 19, 2013 at 2:30 pm Reply

      Love you too Leanne. I know you understand when I say that it is hard not to think about Daddy when anything great is happening around you! Both he and Mom have taught us to enjoy each experience we are given, and to take advantage of all of the gorgeous places that life takes us. Ti amo–

  2. Jan Steinkamp May 20, 2013 at 12:23 pm Reply

    Very touching and appropriate for you to think of your Dad. You are savoring your experiences more than anyone I have ever known. I am like that when somewhere marvelous telling myself “remember and take it all in”.

    • Personalchef07 May 20, 2013 at 1:32 pm Reply

      Your comment means a lot to me Mrs. Jan. At the back of my mind I am always thinking about my Dad, but Saturday on my trip I truly felt his presence in everything I was experiencing. Before I left for my trip, the best advice I got was to ‘act like a sponge and take every experience in fully,’ just as you just said. That was the best advice I could have received, and I have trying to do so everyday! My Dad was the person that taught me that, not just about the marvelous experiences in life, but the everyday experiences as well.

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